Cosmetics Europe was this week in India to talk to the authorities about cosmetics regulation. In particular, we wanted to raise awareness of how in the EU we address the main regulatory challenge in our sector– how do we ensure consumers are kept safe, while allowing the market to be dynamic and innovative?

Just the fact of having meeting in India about regulatory best practice speaks volumes about the changes that have taken place there in recent years. Not too long ago, it was all but impossible to import cosmetics into India. Highly restrictive regulation applied not just to cosmetics, but to every aspect of the economy. But no visitor to today’s thriving Delhi can doubt that India is open for business. For the EU industry, India is an important and growing export market.

Much in India has moved forward in the last two decades. On some issues India has been quick to respond to familiar concerns (it recently banned animal testing for cosmetics), on others there is still scope for development in key areas for our sector.

For example, cosmetics are currently regulated in the same law that covers drugs. However, unlike cosmetics, drugs are intended to have a strong biological impact. That is how they work. Personal care products, on the contrary, have low levels of toxicity, and, because they are applied to the surface of the body, do not have systematic effects. Including drugs and cosmetics in the same regulatory basket (as we have seen elsewhere in the world) puts an unjustified brake on cosmetics innovation.

Let no-one be in any doubt: safety comes first. How then do we meet the challenge of ensuring consumers are protected, while letting new, innovative products hit the shelves without undue bureaucracy and delay? The EU approach of ‘in market’ control of cosmetics has shown its worth over the years – it has underpinned an industry in Europe that is an economic flagship, and one with a superb safety record.

In market control is not going to happen immediately India. But the authorities there are showing a refreshing openness to international best practice. There is a recognition that modernising the regulations is good for Indian consumers and, potentially, for Indian exporters to the EU. It is an attitude that will surely help turn this enchanting country into the economic superpower it has long promised to become.

John Chave, Director General, Cosmetics Europe